Perfume = Fragrance
So what actually perfumes you and I?
They are alpha and beta damascone, hedione,
alpha and beta santatol which are some of
the most important fragrance ingredients.
They are all organic molecules and we love
organic chemistry. Well, let’s look into
the first one, alpha
and beta damascone.
With the suffix that
ends with –one, it must be from a ketone family. Alpha and beta
damascone are rose ketones derived from the Bulgarian rose oil.
Molecules
|
Alpha
damascone
|
Beta
damascone
|
Structural
formula
|
||
IUPAC name
|
1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexene-1-yl)-but-2-ene-1-one
|
(E)-1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)but-2-en-1-one
|
Empirical
formula
|
C13H20O
|
C13H20O
|
Scent
|
a strong rose odor with a pronounced fruity green
apples scent
|
A complex odour of
rose, plum, blackcurrent, wine and tobacco
|
Solubility
|
Soluble in alcohol
|
Soluble in alcohol
|
What are the Uses of
these damascones?
They are used in
alcoholic solution, antiperspirant cream. Deodorant spray, shampoo, and soap. α-Damascone
(rose -apple note) is highly effective in enriching odor of natural as
well as artificial aromas. It is used to add a sweet floral woody odor
with green berry undertones. Beta damascone
emits a fruity floral blackcurrant plum rose honey tobacco. Beta-damascenone and Beta-damascone (blackcurrent-
plum note) remain two of the most important
fragrance ingredients.
Ever wondered how are these
damascone being synthesized?
One of the examples
are preparing 1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexene-1-yl)-but-2-ene-1-one
( alpha damascone) from 2,6,6 –
trimethyl-1-cyclohexene.
2,6,6 – trimethyl-1-cyclohexene is added to the stirred suspension that consists of:
cyclohexane |
+ ZnCI +
Crotonic anhydride |
alpha damascone
Who was one of the 1st fragrances to incorporate damascones into its rose veiled structure?
|
Nahema by Guerlain (1979) was one of the first fragrances to
incorporate damascones into its rose veiled structure. Damascones
decorate the rose notes in the way that gold jewelry enhances the beauty of
princesses from the Arabian Nights tales by which Nahema was inspired. Indeed,
one of the biggest successes of the 1980s was another damascone overdosed
creation, Christian Dior Poison (1985). While alpha-damascone is fruity and floral, with a distinct camphorous
element, beta-damascone can be described as gourmand, with floral and
tobacco-like aspects. Its honeyed plum facet complements the spicy heart of
Poison, while offering a beautiful sweet prelude to the ambery base.
References:
http://www.surechem.org/index.php?Action=document & docId=407632 & db=USPTOA & tab=desc & lang= & db_query=2%3A0%3A & markupType=all
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