Hedione
Marian Bendeth, the president of Sixth
Scents and also the Global Fragrance Expert and consultant to many top perfume
houses has quoted that “Perfume is like cocktails without the hangover, like
chocolate without the calories, like an affair without tears, like a vacation
from which you never have to come back.” Perfume is an asset which lifts a
person charm. When we talk about perfumes, we’ll think of the known fragrance
compound in perfume chart topper, Hedione.
Figure shows the structure of Hedione.
The synthesis of Hedione is through a sequence of condensation reaction. The synthesis begins by a key intermediate 2-pentylidene cyclopentanone, forming a condensation starting from cyclopentanone and n-valeraldehyde, followed by isomerisation, Michael addition and a selective decarboxylation. The products of synthesis are four stereoisomers, in which only one of them truly contributes to the jasmine odour, which is the (+)-cis methyl dihydrojasmonate, while the others are thought to modulate other fragrances. In 1989, Nippon-Zeon had successfully converted the trans-form into cis-form through isomerisation process. In the mid-1990s, the first asymmetric synthesis of the desired (1R)-cis-Hedione using a Ru-(-)-(R, R)-Et-DuPHOS catalysed asymmetric hydrogenation; and the other asymmetric routes have since be developed. It is used in various fine fragrances for more than 40 years and is Fermenich’s top seller in terms of volume.
Hedione simply gives an elegant and warm floral jasmine note with a citrus
freshness, which possesses high diffusion, long-lastingness and tenacity. It is
much favorable and is highly used as it develops a beautiful natural smoothness
and radiance in a wide range of perfume types. It’s authentically pure and
aromatic presence is one that cannot be easily replaced by any other fragrances
molecules, nor compounds.
Hedione has been placed under the lime light in perfume history when it was
first discovered by Firmenich researcher, Edouard Demole in the early 1960s
where he was analyzing the composition of jasmine essence. Its highlight was
when its usage of 2% was seen in Christian Dior Eau Sauvage,
created by Edmond Roudnitska in 1966. A layer of luminous jasmine against the
backdrop of herbs, patchouli, woods and coumarin makes Eau Sauvage
revolutionary in its ability to interpret floral notes in the domain of
masculine perfumery. (Victoria, October 26,
2005.) Its influence in perfumery field then rose with the latter presence of
fragrances like Eau de Rochas and Ô de Lancôme, Christian Dior
Diorella (1972) and Comme de Garçons Odeur 53, all created with the
inspiration of Hedione’s refined aura.
In conclusion, Hedione is just simply unique and precious in the sense of
its characteristic: the long lasting light jasmine note that remains in the air
after it evaporates, always giving a refreshing and floristic feel. It is a
much appreciable fragrance compound for synthesizing and creating better
products, yet always owning the niche demand in market.
Reference:
1) Victoria, October 26, 2005.
[Online]. Hedione Luminous Jasmine : Fragrance Ingredient.
2) Jeb Gleason-Allured, 23 August 2011.
[Online]. Let There Be Light: 50 Years of Hedione.
3) Octavian Coifan, n.d. [Online]. Hedione
50 years - anniversary perfume &
scent chemistry.
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